We are now in Jerusalem (the new city at the moment) after a few exciting days, but we need to back up a bit. Since we last updated, we were in Cinqueterre. The next stop was Assisi, a small village on a hill made famous by St. Francis, founder of a famous Roman Catholic order. We arrived the night that Italy defeated Germany in the world cup semifinals, so the town below was crazy--the variety of crazy that only Italians can manage. The next day we toured and were so happy we had added this stop to the itinerary. We were moved by St. Francis' commitment to living a life of virtue and especially austerity, but moral weakness befell us as we left the church and we bought a few pairs of very well-priced, fine, hand-crafted, Italian leather sandals.
Then back to Rome to catch a flight to Tel Aviv that evening. All was well: we had left plenty of time for all buses and train connections and were at the airport and in line to check in when Israir attendants asked us for our printout of our exit flight from Israel.
"Well, it's an e-ticket and we don't have it printed."
"Okay, then no Israel for you."
"What? We're not even flying on your airline on the way out. We're on Turkish Airlines."
"It doesn't matter. You can take the next flight to Tel Aviv...in five days"
[Quick calculation of the price of staying in Italy for five more days with current Euro exchange rate.]
"We really cannot stay here. Can we use the awesome highspeed internet connection that you're sure to have? We'll just print it out right now."
"We don't have an internet connection."
"Is there an internet cafe in this global airport?"
"No."
"Okay, sweet."
Then we remembered having seen the adjacent Hilton Rome on the way in on the train and Paul made a run for it. Now imagine the slow motion, the Chariots of Fire playing, Paul diving face-forward through security while barrel-rolling and groaning the slow-motion deep-voiced "NOOOOO!" and us totally making the flight.
Tel Aviv was excellent. Beautiful weather at the beach that afternoon and met up with Michigan friends Ran and Hadar Erlich who live in a great neighborhood downtown. The four of us went to Old Jaffa that night, the original Tel Aviv founded by Noah's (of Noah and the Ark fame) son Japheth, for a superb traditional dinner followed by a tour of the area. Ran and Hadar not only took care of us, put us up for the night, fed us, provided wonderful coffee, oriented us to Israel and gave advice, but they also set us up with a fantasticly low-cost laundry service with amazing turn-around.
Then to Jerusalem where we are staying with Maronite nuns (?!). They speak French so Sole is the one who communicates with them.
Last night we were at the Wailing Wall for Shabat which was tremendous to see, and a family we were speaking to invited us to Shabat dinner. We clarified our being Gentiles. We they all: Dudes, it's cool; it's Shabat; you will be our guests. So we walked about 150 yards from the Wall and joined this family: mom, dad, son, daughter, and mom's friend. Outstanding in all...until...we forgot about the nuns' curfew: 10:30pm. Oh, no! Ari, the son, got us back to our place, running with us through a route that avoided the Muslim Quarter so that he would be safe. We arrive and of course the door is locked. Rang the buzzer for 30 min. Right before we gave up an Italian father and daughter who were also guests answered our cry (the nuns were asleep), reconfirming our love again for Italy and its people.
Lehitraot,
Paul & Sole
P.S. Mazel tov to Peter Berens for snagging his first hole-in-one the other day!
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